19 Top Menswear Designers Explain How To Buy And Wear A Suit
Invest in a well-tailored suit today and you'll be wearing it for years to come. But when it comes to finding the right style and getting the perfect fit, we turn to the experts-Michael Bastian, Tom Ford, Paul Smith-and others for their input on color, cut, and comfort.
"When choosing a suit, a man should look for something that he can wear, and not something that will wear him. In other words, elegance, sophistication, and timeless style are always better than of-the-moment trends, which will date-and date the wearer.""As for style, a two-button suit is more timeless than a three or a one-button. A single-breasted is more versatile than double-allowing you to dress your suit up or down more freely and use the jacket as a separate more easily."
"When buying a suit, by default guys go one size bigger to hide their bodies. Don't do this; you should always buy your size. The rule of thumb is that it all starts with the shoulder: Make sure that the shoulder of the jacket follows your natural shoulder line. The jacket should be slightly tapered. This is one of my favorite features in our Ludlow suit. It should also feel snug, but not tight, and you should still have some room to move. You'll be amazed at what a good-fitting jacket does for your posture and confidence."
"A perfectly fitted navy suit is the most versatile thing in a man's wardrobe. It can be worn to almost any occasion from a wedding to an interview."
Tommy Hilfiger"On a suit, if the sleeves are down to the knuckles or substantially above the wrists, you know it isn't fitting well. And then there are the shoulders. You don't want to look like Herman Munster and you don't want to look like Pee-wee Herman. If you button the top button or center button of the jacket and it's not pulling around the waist and the vents aren't spreading but it's still snug, you know you have a good fit."
"Nothing spoils a good suit like a pair of cheap shoes. Properly made ones are a real investment. I've always been of the opinion that it's better to own one item that's beautifully made than three inferior products."
"Get a suit you really like even if it's not the safe choice. Buying another blue or gray suit makes you another sheep in the herd. I want to be the black sheep."
"In Neapolitan dialect, there's an expression, fare una sciammeria, which means to have a wild, passionate, crazy night of sex. They don't come easily-you need to make a bit of effort. To get one you need to invest money-take a woman out to the right restaurant, buy her flowers, do vacations. The money spent will bring you pleasure. It's the same with a suit-you need to spend money to get the most from one."
Viktor & Rolf
"The right suit should be comfortable but tailored. It shouldn't restrict your movements, but it should enhance your figure and give you the silhouette you wish for when you're undressed."Sam Shipley and Jeff Halmos
"Invest in a well-tailored suit. Although the 'buy two suits, get three shirts, seven belts, 96 socks, and 34 ties FREE' deals are tempting, go with something nice and get it tailored to fit you perfectly."
"Mohair suits are a must for spring-they're crisp and lightweight. It breathes so well in the summer months and helps you stay cool."
"Get yourself a nice tailored suit. Girls love a guy in a great suit, and it's really obvious when it doesn't fit you. Plus, every man needs at least one for weddings and special occasions. Dark navy or black are the most timeless."
"I don't believe in playing around much with suit cuts. I like a fairly classic shape that gives a man strong shoulders, a fitted waist, and long legs. Classic simplicity always works."
Rick Owens"When a suit gets middle-of-the-road it kind of loses me-it has to be sharp and classic and almost forties."
"I like a guy in a suit that's cut a little smaller-slightly shorter, with smaller lapels. Inside, the jacket should have beautiful finishing that only the guy wearing it notices."
"The rules of tailoring are a little more ambiguous these days, but the waist and shoulders of a suit should always fit you perfectly."
"Generally speaking, I wear a suit every day, because my suits are custom-made. They are comfortable. They move with me."
"A nice suit is important, but a well-done jacket is the most essential part of a man's wardrobe. A good fit in the shoulder is, to me, crucial."Timo Weiland
"Add a boldly colored and/or patterned tie or cravat to a suit or trench-look as an easy, automatic conversation starter. Not only will you look sharp, people will feel more inclined to approach you to compliment you on your dapper look."
"Choose a comfortable style, the shape that best suits your silhouette to make you feel at ease without losing your savoir-faire."