Vintage ads show the hidden legacy of the Marlboro Man. The brand first became popular as a women's cigarette.

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Vintage ads show the hidden legacy of the Marlboro Man. The brand first became popular as a women's cigarette.
Marlboro Man vs Woman

For decades, Marlboro cigarettes have been all but synonymous with their iconic mascot, the Marlboro Man. The burly, rugged cowboy trailed the plains on horseback in the company's iconic 20th-century advertisements and TV commercials. More recently, he has made cameos in shows like "Seinfeld" and songs like "Old Town Road."

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As a brand, Marlboro has positioned itself to symbolize a lifestyle of independence and self-reliance. But its history is far more complicated.

The brand first stepped out as a women's cigarette in 1924. At that time, smoking was considered a violation of social mores among respectable women. But many tobacco companies, including Marlboro, saw female smokers as an untapped market.

"The tobacco industry realized that half of its potential customers were not even considering using cigarettes," Robert Jackler, a tobacco advertising researcher at Stanford University, told Business Insider. "The industry actually began engineering ways of encouraging women to be willing to smoke in public."

By the late 1920s, women's smoking had become an emblem of first-wave feminism. But Marlboro's advertisements were still steeped in gender stereotypes. They featured debutantes concerned about keeping their lipstick intact or doting housewives who craved the same cigarettes as their husbands.

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The following vintage ads reveal how Marlboro has evolved over nearly 100 years.

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By 1920, women in America had won the right to vote — but some were still being denied the right to smoke in public.

By 1920, women in America had won the right to vote — but some were still being denied the right to smoke in public.

In 1904, a woman in New York was sentenced to 30 days in jail for smoking in the presence of her children. Four years later, another woman in New York was arrested for smoking a cigarette in public.

In 1921, Congress proposed a bill that would ban women from smoking in public in Washington, D.C. Women who did smoke were often forced to do so at home.

"It would have been very shocking for women to smoke in public in the early 20th century," Jackler said. "In polite American society, women did not smoke, certainly not in public."

Marlboro ads helped shift that narrative. They depicted smoking as glamorous rather than unladylike.

Marlboro ads helped shift that narrative. They depicted smoking as glamorous rather than unladylike.

The company's debut tagline was "Mild as May" — a reference to both the flavor of the cigarettes and the demeanor of the women smoking them.

Many of the women in these advertisements had dark lips, long eyelashes, and perfectly coiffed hair. Their cigarettes were perched neatly between two fingers. Marlboro even marketed the cigarettes as an accessory for bridge parties or limousine rides.

The cigarettes came with grease-proof tips designed to prevent a woman's lipstick from smudging. Marlboro even introduced red rims around the cigarette to disguise lipstick stains.

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Philip Morris, the company that owned Marlboro, launched a handwriting contest for ladies. Women received a box of cigarettes in exchange for entering.

Philip Morris, the company that owned Marlboro, launched a handwriting contest for ladies. Women received a box of cigarettes in exchange for entering.

In the late 1920s, women were asked to submit a written sample of Marlboro's slogan — "A cigarette for those who can afford 20 cents for the best" — with an enclosed check for $1. In exchange, Marlboro would send them a pack of cigarettes and a "character analysis" of their handwriting from a Russian graphologist.

Cigarettes were also a symbol of rebellion for women in the 1920s.

Cigarettes were also a symbol of rebellion for women in the 1920s.

As Marlboro was marketing its cigarette to women, its rival brand — the American Tobacco Company — adopted the same approach.

The company hired public-relations expert Edward Bernays (the nephew of Sigmund Freud) to help stage a protest at the 1929 Easter Day Parade in New York City. Bernays recruited debutantes to march through the streets, dressed in white, carrying lit cigarettes in their hand.

He called the cigarettes "torches of freedom."

"It was covered in every newspaper and magazine in America," Jackler said. "There were hundreds of newspapers all over America that featured pictures of these women on Fifth Avenue."

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As cigarettes became more popular among women, Hollywood started to show actresses smoking on the silver screen.

As cigarettes became more popular among women, Hollywood started to show actresses smoking on the silver screen.

The 1942 film "Now, Voyager," starring Bette Davis, used cigarettes as a romantic proposition.

The 1944 film "To Have and Have Not," featured actress Lauren Bacall seductively lighting a cigarette in the doorway.

American women were drawn these Hollywood aesthetics, Jackler said.

"You're actually targeting them much as you would influencers on social media today," he said. "Having a beautiful, fashionable movie star in a tobacco ad inspires people."

In the 1940s, Marlboro ads portrayed cigarettes as a way for women to attract men.

In the 1940s, Marlboro ads portrayed cigarettes as a way for women to attract men.

This advertisement from 1945 catered to women, but featured the slogan: "Everything for the boys."

"The thought is that Marlboro appeals to women who want to reject classic femininity," Jackler said. "But I think that's a little simplistic. While there may be some of that, I think that it's also because women smoke the cigarette that's in the house."

Men in the 1940s smoked Marlboro, too — though the brand wasn't as popular as the American Tobacco Company's Lucky Strike cigarettes.

By 1954, the "women's cigarette" still represented less than 1% of the domestic cigarette market.

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In the 1950s, scientific research started to suggest that cigarettes could cause lung cancer in men. Fearful of losing a key market, Marlboro introduced its signature mascot: the Marlboro Man.

In the 1950s, scientific research started to suggest that cigarettes could cause lung cancer in men. Fearful of losing a key market, Marlboro introduced its signature mascot: the Marlboro Man.

In 1950, four independent studies found that a high percentage of lung cancer patients were also heavy smokers. In the years to follow, dozens of similar studies began to confirm these results.

In 1954, scientists at the American Cancer Society determined that "men with a history of regular cigarette smoking have a considerably higher death rate than men who have never smoked or men who have smoked only cigars or pipes."

Marlboro wanted a way to reassure male customers that its cigarettes weren't a hazard to their health. In 1954, the brand launched a filtered cigarette that was believed, at the time, to reduce the amount of tar and other toxic chemicals that a smoker inhaled.

But filtered cigarettes were also seen as weaker and less flavorful.

"At the time, there was an attitude that the only people who smoked filters were women and sissy men," Jackler said. "The notion was to show that a real macho, rugged man could smoke filters."

The Marlboro Man helped reinforce the idea that filtered cigarettes could be masculine.

Before settling on the cowboy, Marlboro tested many different tropes of masculinity, including sailors, football players, and airline pilots.

Before settling on the cowboy, Marlboro tested many different tropes of masculinity, including sailors, football players, and airline pilots.

"They wanted to have a filter brand that was more lifestyle-oriented," Jackler said. "This paper-wrapped, shredded tobacco leaf was everything to everyone. It was an essential part of daily life."

That was true despite the fact that not all Americans resembled the Marlboro Man.

"There's a real genius to it," Jackler said. "Very few people are Marlboro Men, but people resonate with what the Marlboro Man represents."

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Many of these ads prominently displayed the men's military tattoos.

Many of these ads prominently displayed the men's military tattoos.

"Every single one of them had a tattoo on their hand," Jackler said of the early Marlboro Men. The advertisements, he added, "were meant to show masculine men doing what masculine men do."

The cowboy was by far the most popular figure. He symbolized a rugged individualism that appealed to many Americans heading into the 1960s.

The cowboy was by far the most popular figure. He symbolized a rugged individualism that appealed to many Americans heading into the 1960s.

"The Marlboro Man actually ended up appealing to young people and women, as well," Jackler said. "The whole idea of the individualistic, independent cowboy is one that doesn't have to listen to what some prissy government bureaucrat is telling him to do about his smoking."

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The Marlboro Man was also the portrait of physical health and strength — despite what research suggested about smoking and lung cancer.

The Marlboro Man was also the portrait of physical health and strength — despite what research suggested about smoking and lung cancer.

"The connotation of these ads is, 'Not only am I rugged and masculine, but I'm in control of my own. Nobody's going to tell me what to do and I don't have to listen to those doctors and public-health people,'" Jackler said.

When smokers started turning to lower-priced cigarettes, Marlboro started to advertise other products and experiences that complemented its cowboy ethos.

When smokers started turning to lower-priced cigarettes, Marlboro started to advertise other products and experiences that complemented its cowboy ethos.

By the 1990s, Marlboro was still America's best-selling cigarette, but customers were increasingly willing to jump ship for cheaper brands. The Clinton administration was also threatening to impose higher taxes on cigarettes to discourage smoking.

In addition to lowering its prices, Marlboro unveiled a new advertising campaign called the "Marlboro Adventure Team," which offered 10 winners several days of hiking, biking, rafting, and horseback riding through Colorado and Utah. The company also sold "Adventure Gear" like jackets, canvas duffel bags, Swiss Army watches, and lighters.

The Marlboro Man was absent from the campaign.

"The disappearance is intriguing because it comes when Marlboro sales are unexpectedly slumping," The New York Times wrote in 1992. "While no one is claiming the Marlboro Man is heading for his last roundup, there is a widespread belief that the imagery, once fresh and compelling, has become dated."

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In 1992, Wayne McLaren became the first man who appeared in a Marlboro advertisement to die of a smoking-related illness.

In 1992, Wayne McLaren became the first man who appeared in a Marlboro advertisement to die of a smoking-related illness.

McLaren died of lung cancer. At least four other men who appeared in Marlboro advertisements have met a similar fate. The second man, David McLean, died of lung cancer in 1995. His widow sued Philip Morris a year later.

"During the taping of the commercials, David McLean was obligated to smoke Marlboro cigarettes," her lawsuit reads. "The commercials were very carefully orchestrated, and David McLean was required to smoke up to five packs per take in order to get the ashes to fall a certain way, the smoke to rise a certain way and the hand to hold the cigarette in a certain way."

The lawsuit was ultimately dismissed in court, but the cigarettes have since incurred the nickname "cowboy killers."

Philip Morris USA is now owned by Altria, a company that also owns the e-cigarette maker JUUL Labs.

Philip Morris USA is now owned by Altria, a company that also owns the e-cigarette maker JUUL Labs.

"Altria still keeps the legacy of the Western heritage of Marlboro, often with images of cowboys," Jackler said.

As smoking rates decline across America, e-cigarettes have become increasingly popular — particularly among teenagers. From 2017 to 2018, e-cigarette use among high school students increased by 78%.

The US Food and Drug Administration has warned that e-cigarettes' fun flavors make e-cigarettes more appealing to young smokers. In January, the FDA banned these types of flavored e-cigarette cartridges.

But Jackler said that cigarette brands constantly find new ways to reinvent themselves.

"The tobacco industry is like a chameleon," he said. "It will adapt to whatever's popular."

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