In Atlanta's bustling center, it can be easy to forget the city is set in a rolling forest with a curving river. Canoe reminds you of that fact, and it's well worth the few minutes' drive to visit this seasonal fine-dining restaurant's waterfront location on the banks of the Chattahoochee. I find its well-manicured walkways and gardens romantic and the height of contemporary Southern gentility, but the food is so good, I often forget to look any farther than my plate.
The executive chef, Matthew Basford, keeps a selection of thoughtfully sourced primary ingredients, such as Bay of Fundy salmon, Springer Mountain chicken, and heritage pork chops, and frequently swaps out their preparation styles, flavor profiles, and accoutrements and sides. For instance, while there's always kangaroo on the game-heavy menu, depending on the week, it could come with a cocoa-infused reduction with marinated beets or with mole queso and refried lentils.
And don't forget to save room for dessert — the popcorn ice-cream sundae with the housemade "Cracker Jack" is as tasty as it is photogenic, and the flat white, a nod to the chef's Australian roots and to tiramisu, is one of my favorites.