I spent 3 nights in a hidden resort in Mexico that's beloved by wealthy bohemians and has an invite-only festival comparable to Burning Man. It was almost too wild to believe.

Advertisement
I spent 3 nights in a hidden resort in Mexico that's beloved by wealthy bohemians and has an invite-only festival comparable to Burning Man. It was almost too wild to believe.
Careyes travel

Meagan Drillinger for Business Insider

Advertisement

Careyes is magic.

  • Careyes is a private beach resort that sits on the Pacific coast of Mexico.
  • The community of artists and high-end hippies was founded in 1968 and has since become an enclave for well-off bohemians.
  • It's marked by playful, colorful architecture, and is even home to a Burning Man-like arts festival.
  • In April, I spent three nights in Careyes. I've traveled the majority of Mexico - but nothing has surprised me quite like Careyes.
  • Visit Business Insider's homepage for more stories.

I wouldn't have believed it if I didn't see it for myself. To be honest? I'm still not entirely sure it's real. But last April I found myself staying at a hidden European enclave on a stretch of deserted Mexican coastline.

It's called Careyes, and it's almost too wild to believe.

Allow me to backtrack: I live in Puerto Vallarta for four months out of the year and have done so for the past four years. I've traveled the majority of Mexico. Nothing has surprised me quite like Careyes.

Advertisement

Here's what it's like.

{{}}

I live in Puerto Vallarta four months out of the year, and have done so for the past four years. I've also traveled through the majority of Mexico.

I live in Puerto Vallarta four months out of the year, and have done so for the past four years. I've also traveled through the majority of Mexico.

But last April, I found myself staying at a hidden European enclave on a stretch of deserted Mexican coastline. It's called Careyes, and nothing has ever surprised me quite like it.

But last April, I found myself staying at a hidden European enclave on a stretch of deserted Mexican coastline. It's called Careyes, and nothing has ever surprised me quite like it.
Advertisement

There is a stretch of coast that runs from Puerto Vallarta in the state of Jalisco down to the city of Manzanillo in the state of Colima.

There is a stretch of coast that runs from Puerto Vallarta in the state of Jalisco down to the city of Manzanillo in the state of Colima.

This 200-mile stretch of rugged, untamed, raw coastline is called the Costalegre, or the "Happy Coast."

This 200-mile stretch of rugged, untamed, raw coastline is called the Costalegre, or the "Happy Coast."

It's veined by a singular curvy, snaking highway that winds its way through the mountains, opening up to vistas that show barren, sweeping beachscapes, forests of palm trees, and little else. It's a part of the country that will make you forget that anything else exists in Mexico.

It is, in short, magic.

Advertisement

So it isn't all that surprising that this is where an Italian banker would decide to build a private hideaway for artists, celebrities, and high-end hippies.

So it isn't all that surprising that this is where an Italian banker would decide to build a private hideaway for artists, celebrities, and high-end hippies.

Gian Franco Brignone, an Italian artist and banker, first explored this part of Mexico in the late 1960s. And by explored, I mean bushwhacked — because at that time, Careyes was virtually inaccessible. It was the heart of the jungle, hidden between mountain ridges where no roads had been developed.

Brignone's vision was to create a hideaway for the upper echelon of creatives. It was to be a space for artists, poets, and musicians to come together to create, to inspire and be inspired by each other and by Mexico.

I arrived from the Manzanillo airport, about two hours south of Careyes.

I arrived from the Manzanillo airport, about two hours south of Careyes.

Careyes sits on more than 20,000 acres of Jalisco land, and the best part is you don't even know you're there until you're right in the thick of it.

Advertisement

You can't see it from the road. A frankly unimpressive turnoff from the highway leads away from the mountains and moves toward the ocean.

You can't see it from the road. A frankly unimpressive turnoff from the highway leads away from the mountains and moves toward the ocean.

The only hint of what's coming are two mirror-image castles that sit perched on opposing clifftops overlooking the Pacific Ocean, which can be seen from the highway. But the design of Careyes is so subtle, and so in tune with nature, that unless you know what you're looking for, they are easy to miss.

To arrive at Careyes is to stumble upon a secret world. The sprawling coastal estate is a haven for a creative, international community.

To arrive at Careyes is to stumble upon a secret world. The sprawling coastal estate is a haven for a creative, international community.

Sixty-five villas painted in explosive cobalt, crimson, and ochre cascade down craggy cliffs to look like a scene from the coast of Portofino.

There are also 40 casitas, three bungalows, a newly opened Club & Residences, restaurants, a Polo Club, and magnificent art installations scattered throughout. There is even a Foundation whose sole mission is to preserve the majority of the 20,000 acres of Careyes to protect the environment and animals that live in it.

Advertisement

Once inducted into the exclusive fold (rates to stay there begin at $350 per night), Careyes becomes a playground for the glitterati who want to tuck their stilettos away in exchange for caftans and green juice.

Once inducted into the exclusive fold (rates to stay there begin at $350 per night), Careyes becomes a playground for the glitterati who want to tuck their stilettos away in exchange for caftans and green juice.

The high-powered put away their iPads in exchange for yoga mats and essential oils — with million-dollar views, mind you. It's not uncommon for a yoga session to be held on the terrace of a six-bedroom villa, with nothing but the Pacific Ocean splayed out before you.

All of the accommodations, whether it's a room at the Residences or one of the palatial villas, are owned or for sale, but they are also available as vacation rentals.

All of the accommodations, whether it's a room at the Residences or one of the palatial villas, are owned or for sale, but they are also available as vacation rentals.

I stayed at the Residences, which seems modest in comparison to some of the other digs available. By any other measure, however, they are extremely high end.

The condo-style Residences all feature balconies overlooking the sea, modern furniture, expansive kitchens, and luxurious bathrooms. The Residence section has a selection of restaurants, as well, like the infinity poolside La Duna or Playa Rosa, which serves Mexican cuisine on the beach.

Advertisement

I was able to snag an architectural tour led by Brignone's son, Giorgio, who now essentially holds the keys to Paradise while his father acts as more of a figurehead. Giorgio's private residence, Casa Azul, is a work of art on its own. The multi-level villa, painted in Frida Kahlo Blue, sits over the churning Pacific.

I was able to snag an architectural tour led by Brignone's son, Giorgio, who now essentially holds the keys to Paradise while his father acts as more of a figurehead. Giorgio's private residence, Casa Azul, is a work of art on its own. The multi-level villa, painted in Frida Kahlo Blue, sits over the churning Pacific.

The villa's design plays with nature: Half of it is open to the elements, while the other half has enough windows that you're never sure when outside ends and inside begins.

I was visiting during an international polo tournament, which meant that as I meandered in and out of the rooms, I was coming across elegant women sipping Champagne on plush daybeds, or walking across international polo celebrities having their calves rubbed down with massage oil in preparation for the match later that afternoon.

Other villas were equally impressive. Remember the mirror-image castles that sat perched on cliffs? They are also villas that are available for rent: Sol De Oriente and Sol De Occidente.

Other villas were equally impressive. Remember the mirror-image castles that sat perched on cliffs? They are also villas that are available for rent: Sol De Oriente and Sol De Occidente.

Sol De Oriente is an explosion of canary yellow that sits high on a cliff, wreathed in a 360-degree turquoise infinity pool. The villa is topped with a massive, thatched palapa that adds a serious dose of understated elegance to an otherwise posh palace.

The castle has three-bedroom suites and multi-tiered levels, private dining, living areas. It comes fully staffed with a live-in butler, chef, and maids. Just across the Playa Careyitos is the sister castle, Sol De Occidente, which is a mirror image, only in pale green.

Advertisement

So anyway, as I was saying: polo. It turns out that Careyes is the host for the annual Agua Alta polo tournament, and has been for the last 20 years.

So anyway, as I was saying: polo. It turns out that Careyes is the host for the annual Agua Alta polo tournament, and has been for the last 20 years.

The estate has its own polo club that adheres to international standards — hats, Champagne, and all. The club has two regulation Bermuda grass fields and stables for 150 horses.

Any time there is an event at Careyes, there are parties to match. Polo is no exception.

In addition to the matches throughout the day (which come complete with wine, art, and fashion), there are evening parties — think massive gaucho-style bonfire cookouts and barefoot beach parties by moonlight.

Nestled on the sand on one of the many desolate beaches in Careyes is a charming, driftwood-style elevated beach shack called Casa de Nada. It's known for its potent cocktails, Mexican-style street snacks, and after-hours parties.

Polo season isn't the only time the Careyes elite don their boho best. Each year, the compound hosts what is essentially an elevated Burning Man. It's called Ondalinda.

Polo season isn't the only time the Careyes elite don their boho best. Each year, the compound hosts what is essentially an elevated Burning Man. It's called Ondalinda.

Ondalinda is a celebration of all things art, culture, and music, and even includes large-scale installation on the beach.

Advertisement

The difference between Ondalinda and Burning Man is that the former comes with five-star accommodations — and it's invitation only.

The difference between Ondalinda and Burning Man is that the former comes with five-star accommodations — and it's invitation only.

But those who do manage to snag an invite to Ondalinda are treated to an endless soundtrack of international DJs, dancing by firelight, the unveiling of massive art structures, and a whole lot of Careyes magic.

It's a self-proclaimed "tribal gathering" of creative minds and hearts.

Ultimately, though, Careyes is more than an architectural marvel and a stop on the social circuit for wealthy bohemians. It's a community with a devoted following.

Ultimately, though, Careyes is more than an architectural marvel and a stop on the social circuit for wealthy bohemians. It's a community with a devoted following.

Many residents of Careyes live there year-round, or at least for the majority of the year. Take Pueblo 25, a restaurant in the small pueblo of Careyes just across the highway from the luxury resort compound. Owned and operated by a Peruvian couple who have called Careyes their home for the last 18 years, they are a prime example of those who were enchanted by the artistic spirit and seductive sense of escape that the environment provides.

Advertisement

And a big part of what makes Careyes so magical is its respect for nature. The environment comes first, and the compound bows to the land.

And a big part of what makes Careyes so magical is its respect for nature. The environment comes first, and the compound bows to the land.

Careyes puts conservation at the forefront. Sitting at the center of the Chamela-Cuixmala Biosphere Reserve, Careyes has put aside a large portion of its acreage for preservation. Within the compound are more than 1,200 species of flora and fauna. A turtle sanctuary has seen the hatching of more than 1 million turtles in the last 20 years.

The Foundation also gives back to the local community, providing education for local children, employment opportunities, language lessons, movie nights, and seminars. Not only is Careyes providing an escape for its guests, it's also working to sustain and support the already existing community around it.

In fact, Brignone received the Orden Mexicana del Aguila Azteca from former Mexican President Vicente Fox in 2006, as a recognition for his work helping to preserve Mexican land and culture over the decades.

There is no denying that Careyes is luxurious. You will encounter more models and millionaires than most other places in the world. The difference is you will have no idea who they are, and they like it that way.

There is no denying that Careyes is luxurious. You will encounter more models and millionaires than most other places in the world. The difference is you will have no idea who they are, and they like it that way.

Careyes is a place to get lost in existential conversations over wine as the sun comes up. It's a place to feel inspired to have a tête-À-tête with the universe and see what comes of it. Brignone started that conversation more than 50 years ago and has even constructed a family tomb somewhere in the cliffs of Careyes so that he and the universe can communicate for eternity.

Careyes is a place to get lost. And you will — but it will be entirely intentional.

Advertisement