How face mapping can help you get to the root cause of your acne
- Acne face mapping, a Chinese medicinal practice, isn't yet backed by Western science.
- However, identifying what is causing pimples on certain parts of the face can help treat your acne.
- Using certain products, hormonal changes, diet, and sweat can cause acne on the face.
Acne face mapping is a practice that dates back thousands of years in East Asia, known as mien shang, and suggests that acne in different regions of the face corresponded to varying imbalances in the body.
While this practice of face mapping isn't yet backed by western science, identifying the root cause of your acne can help treat it, says Y. Claire Chang, MD, a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist at Union Square Laser Dermatology.
For example, having acne on certain parts of your face, like your chin or hairline, do have specific causes, says Chang.
Here's what you need to know about the meaning of acne on different parts of your face and how you can treat it.
What does acne mean on different parts of the face?
"Acne breakouts in certain areas of the face may suggest specific internal or external triggers, which can then be avoided or treated to prevent further breakouts," says Chang.
"It is important to remember that the root causes of acne are similar in all locations of the face and body. These include excess oil production, clogged pores, bacteria and inflammation. Genetics, hormones, diet, and lifestyle also play a key role in acne," says Chang.
With that in mind, here's a guide to help you figure out what might be causing your acne on the different parts of your face:
Hairline
Acne around the hairline often points to certain hair or skincare products as a trigger, says Chang. This type of acne is also called "pomade acne" because pomades - thick and greasy oil-based products for hair styling - often block the pores and cause acne breakouts.
It's best to avoid using comedogenic (or pore-clogging) products, such as hair oils, waxes, gels, and pomades, and switch to non-comedogenic ones instead. You can check the labels of various hair or skincare products to see if they say they're non-comedogenic.
Forehead
Forehead acne is common and can be triggered by fringes, oily hair, caps or hats, or comedogenic hair products, which may lead to clogged pores and breakouts.
"It is important to wash your hair regularly and avoid comedogenic hair and face products. Oftentimes, cutting the bangs shorter and avoiding hair oils can in and of itself improve forehead acne," says Chang.
Cheeks
"The mid-cheeks and nose in particular - or 'T-zone' - have higher concentration of oil glands, making them more prone to breakouts," says Chang. "Cheek breakouts can also point to environmental triggers, including dirty pillowcases, bedsheets, cell phone cases, and in this day and age, face masks."
Lower face (jawline and chin)
Skin irritation, inflammation around the hair follicles, or ingrown hairs from close shaving may cause acne around the chin and jawline area.
"I recommend using a moisturizing shaving cream, using a single blade or electric razor, shaving in the direction of the hair follicle, and keeping razors sterile before use," says Chang.
Acne in the lower face area is also associated with hormonal changes, which can trigger acne throughout your life and not just during your teenage puberty years. Hormonal acne gets worse during menstrual periods and menopause due to higher levels of androgen, which are hormones that stimulate more oil production in the skin leading to breakouts, says Chang.
Important: In general, acne tends to run in families. A diet of carbohydrate-rich foods and stress may trigger acne, but contrary to popular belief, greasy foods, dirty skin, or chocolate have nothing to do with it.
How do you treat acne?
You can treat acne with the use of topical or oral medications, or a combination of the two. However, results from medications vary per person and may also depend on acne severity.
"It is important to find a personalized regimen for you. Not everyone responds to the same medications, so finding one that works for you may take time and patience," says Chang.
There are plenty of potential treatments for acne, such as:
- Topical acne medications: Acne products differ by the active ingredients that they use to target acne. Those with retinoids (Retin-A or Tazorac), benzoyl peroxide (Clearasil or Stridex), or dapsone (Aczone) are found to be effective in treating acne.
- Oral acne medication: Isotretinoin, an oral retinoid, is usually prescribed only for severe acne cases. Because there is an extremely high risk for birth defects, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not recommend it for pregnant individuals.
- Birth control: Oral contraceptives can reduce the levels of androgen, decreasing oil production in the skin and reducing breakouts. The FDA has approved the use of medications like Ortho Tri-Cyclen, Estrostep, and Yaz to treat acne.
- Antibiotics: People with moderate to severe acne can use antibiotics, such as tetracycline (Sumycin), minocycline (Minoz), and azithromycin (Zithromax), to reduce bacteria and minimize acne.
- Spironolactone: Spironolactone is an anti-androgen (a hormone blocker) which is used to treat acne in women only.
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recommends reading medications' labels or consulting a dermatologist before using any sort of treatment so that you're aware of any potential side effects.
Note: If you are experiencing severe or stubborn hormonal acne accompanied by excess hair growth and irregular periods, then you may have a condition called polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).
Insider's takeaway
Figuring out what might trigger your pimples is an effective way of managing your acne.
Hairline and forehead acne is often caused by pore-clogging (or comedogenic) hair products, while cheek breakouts tend to be associated with environmental factors such as pillowcases and bedsheets. Acne around the chin and jawline is triggered by close shaving or hormonal changes in the body.
Acne can be treated with oral and topical medications, and according to Chang, anyone with acne - no matter the severity - would benefit from talking to a dermatologist about the best acne treatment for them.
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