Why you'll love it: The Black Diamond Momentum is comfortable enough that you won't feel like you're binding your feet, but unlike many beginner-friendly shoes, it offers enough grip and durability to stay in your gear bag as your climbing improves.
Black Diamond is to climbing what Coca-Cola is to soft drinks. For years climbers have relied on the company's clothing, helmets, and headlamps, from the Himalayas to the local bouldering gym. Despite this, it wasn't until 2017 that it released its first climbing shoe. Thankfully, the Momentum shoe lives up to expectations and delivers a great fit, beginner-friendly pricing, and excellent performance.
The Momentum really shines for its ability to combine comfort and performance. In large part, this is due to the use of an innovative knitted material that expert testers at REI loved, saying that "the knit is tight where you need support, and loose where your feet need to breathe."
The relatively flat and symmetrical shape of the shoe means it'll be comfortable when belaying or trad climbing longer routes outside, as well as on short boulder problems (routes) or gym climbs. The synthetic material should maintain its shape and deal well with sweat, chalk, and weather. The shoe looks basic, but the Momentum offers a comfortable fit and surprisingly capable design, despite costing $100 less than other shoes we tested.
This comfort does not come at the price of performance thanks to a well-engineered rubber sole and toe box. One buyer said, "I felt secure and confident while smearing [pushing the shoe against the rock face for grip], and I had no trouble hanging on to tiny nubbins while edging [using only the edge of the shoe to push off a very slim foothold]."
The shoe's double tongues don't tend to fold up and create pressure points on the foot as much as single-tongue designs. When combined with the Velcro closure, one expert tester found the Momentum "comfortable to wear all day whether climbing or belaying."
If you're looking to get out of gym shoes, this is a great upgrade. If you stick with climbing you'll no doubt find your shoe quiver growing, but this should remain a staple. I have several pairs of climbing shoes, and there are certainly times when I reach for the super downturned and aggressive shoes to help me send a particularly challenging route with a tiny edge.
However, it's the Momentum shoes that live in my truck and that I know I can pull out for an evening at the gym or a full day of climbing outside. That is what these shoes a fantastic choice for any climber, no matter what their experience or climbing preference.
Pros: Great fit for a range of feet, affordable, durable, comfortable
Cons: Not as technically capable as other shoes
Buy the Black Diamond Momentum for men at REI for $94.95
Buy the Black Diamond Momentum for women at REI for $94.95